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piazza-frontbBorder and body stitch adapted from 450 Knitting Stitches – Volume 2 (Harmony Guides)Copyright © Collins and Brown, 1998. This book is out of print, but is sometimes available on Etsy as well as other books in the series

I love the almost architectural structure of the hat — the pattern reminds me of columns and a facade. Although it’s simple to knit, I found it a little tedious, so it is a good pattern to knit when you are supposed to be paying attention to something (or someone) else. I did get a little overconfident in the repetition and twice had to go back to undo where I’d lost the rib pattern.

Materials

Yarn: 3 oz (85 gms), 197 yards (180 meters) Aran weight yarn. The example was done with Lion Brand(R) Wool-Ease(R) Yarn – Blue Mist

Circular Needles, Size 9 US (5.5 mm), 16″ long. I recommend 16″ Addi Turbo Circular Knitting Needles (the best!)

Double pointed needles, size 9 US, 5.5 mm.

Stitch markers.

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Gauge in body pattern: about 5 st per in, 10 st per 5 cm

Finished measurements: Hat body about 20″ (50 cm) in circumference 8″ (19 cm) from cast-on edge to crown.

For a different size or gauge, increase or decrease in multiples of 2. You will need to adjust the decrease for your total number of stitches.

Stitch abbreviations:
k2tog – Knit two stitches together. This will decrease one stitch.
k2f&b – Knit into the front and back of the next two stitches to increase to four stitches.
sl1 – Slip stitch from left needle to right needle without knitting.
yb – Move yarn to back.
yf – Move yarn to front.
yo – Move yarn over and around needle to make an additional stitch.

Border:

piazza-detail2Variations:

  • To make a unisex hat, replace the lace border with a single or double rib.
  • To replace the border with a ruffle, cast on 201 stitches. Follow the pattern to the end of the border. Then instead of the increase row, do a decrease row — k2tog around.

Cast on 81 stitches. I initially put stitch markers every 20 stitches, but had to move them during round 4 when the k2tog went across the markers.

Round 1: Purl. (First round of hat only: Slip first stitch. Purl to last stitch. Purl last stitch with slipped first stitch, being careful not to twist the row. This will close the round and decrease one stitch. 80 st. Place marker.)
Round 2: *sl1, k1 , rep from *
Round 3: *yb, sl1, yf, p1, rep from *
Round 4: sl1, *yo, k2tog, rep from * until final stitch. Knit final stitch together with first slipped stitch, moving stitch marker after this stitch.
Round 5: Purl.

Repeat rounds 1-5 once more.

Round 11 (Increase): *k3, kf&b, rep from *. 100 st.

ridged-rib-sideHat body:

Round 12: Purl.

Rounds 13 and 14: *k1, p1, rep from *.

Round 15: Knit.

Repeat rounds 12-15 until hat measures 5-5.5 inches (13 cm). End on row 14.

 

Decrease:

ridged-rib-backSwitch to double pointed needles (or continue with the circular needle as far as you comfortably can — for me until about round 6 — and then switch). I suggest knitting off an equal number of stitches on to the double pointed neeedles on the first decrease round.

Round 1: *k2tog, k8 (90 st).
Round 2: Purl.
Round 3: *k2tog, p, [k,p] 3 times. (80 st)
Round 4: *k1, p1.
Round 5: *k2tog, k6 (70 st).
Round 6: Purl.
Round 7: *k2tog, p, [k,p] 2 times. (60 st)
Round 8: *k1, p1.
Round 9: *k2tog, k4 (50 st).
Round 10: Purl.
Round 11: *k2tog, p, k, p. (40 st)
Round 12: *k1, p1.
Round 13: *k2tog, k2 (30 st).
Round 14: Purl.
Round 15: *k2tog, p. (20 st)
Round 12: *k1, p1.
Round 13: *k2tog (10 st).

Rounds 13 and 14: *k1, p1, rep from *.

Round 15: Knit.

Repeat rounds 12-15 until hat measures 5-5.5 inches (13 cm). End on row 14.

Finishing:

Cut the yarn leaving about 6″ tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull stitches together tightly. Thread tail through hole in crown. Draw crown closed securely by pulling tail. Weave the tail and all other ends through stitches on wrong side.

This pattern can also be downloaded from Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ridged-rib-hat

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